Fall is well and truly upon us, and yesterday afternoon we took a beautiful autumnal walk around Highgate Cemetery.
It is very much a creation of the nineteenth century - one of several cemeteries built following the need for more burial space during the rapid expansion of London, and before the twentieth century vogue of cremation. And it feels very Victorian gothic, containing graves or other tombs which are at the least very grand and proper, normally topped by at least an angel or some other statue, and in many cases magnificently more: several large family mausoleums, as well as areas of catacombs. Most famously there is the ‘Lebanon Circle’ - a circular area of catacombs around a large central Cedar (of Lebanon); and an Eqyptian avenue reflecting the fashion of interest in Egypt at one point in the Victorian era.
The very leafy surroundings make it particularly evocative to be there in the autumn, and we had a beautiful fresh afternoon to be up there.
The cemetery has been rescued and is now maintained by an impressive volunteer effort by the Friends of Highgate Cemetery, who have largely rescued it and make it available to visitors following its neglect by its owners in the 1970s.
We were in the western crematorium cemetery, which is not the part which hosts the body of Karl Marx (in the eastern crematorium cemetery). It does however contain the body of Alexander Litvinenko, and it also meant that we had the benefit of a guide to take us round.
One of the other notable features of the tour is the severe lady who guards the western crematorium cemetery, and whose job it is to manage and, she gives the impression, deter visitors who want to go on a tour around it. She has some very fixed views indeed on some aspects of visitor behaviour, ranging from the absolute indispensability of having read the yellow sign with the Conditions of Entry, to when prospective visitors should stand up and when they should sit down - some people with us being told off for getting both injunctions wrong, while still outside the cemetery and before the tour had even started.
Fortunately, once the tour had started we had a very pleasant and knowledgeable guide who took us round, and we were able to leave this formidable lady behind (at least until we came back to her on the way out, ‘asking’ for a further donation before she would let us out…).
October 25th, 2007 at 8:17
Ha ha … yes … I’ve come across her a couple of times … she doesn’t seem to like people very much!
October 26th, 2007 at 14:20
The ‘formidable lady’ is a legend at Highgate!!
October 29th, 2007 at 23:16
The Lady in question, although seemingly rather harsh at times, has guided Highgate Cemetery from a desolate wilderness to its present glory, by leading the Friends of Highgate Cemetery. As much as sometimes appearing to be a little grumpy, I for one applaud Jean Pateman and hold her in high esteem for the tireless work she has done.
March 31st, 2008 at 11:45
Anyone who applauds what Jean Pateman has allowed to happen to that cemetery is as bad as she is. “Maintained neglect”?! Give me a break… more like neglected maintenance. The woman has told guides and employees alike that she hates cemeteries and views the place as being an extension of her own personal garden. And as for manners, they cost nothing.
June 9th, 2008 at 7:43
You refer to the east and west crematorium. there is no crematorium at highgate. it is one of the seven Victorian cemeteries that ring London designed to help alleviate the burial problam of the capital.
the lady in question is indeed formidable and appears most times as rude. having worked with her as a volunteer guide some years ago one has to hold a (grudging)respect for her.
June 9th, 2008 at 8:09
Quite right - now corrected.
July 22nd, 2008 at 13:01
Hi
I’m planning a trip to the West cemetery and would like to know if photography is permitted, as that’s my reason for going. I have read the instructions on the FOH website, but just wondered what to expect when I arrive.
July 22nd, 2008 at 20:10
Hi
Yes, photography is permitted in the cemetery - and is very popular!
August 7th, 2008 at 15:12
My wife and I visited Highgate west yesterday and had a very enjoyable visit, the guide was great, full of information and very friendly with it, and I for one will make a point of visiting again.
November 9th, 2008 at 17:57
The amazing thing is that Jean is still going as she seemed ancient when I worked there two decades ago. At the time, and probably now, for all I know, she was known by the staff as “The Daughter of Darkness.”
She runs things with a bonkers meglomania which as far as I can tell is not at all neccessary. However, the neglect of the cemetery happened long before she took over, and it has been managed quite sensibly with an eye to balancing the requirements of making enough money to keep it going, wildlife, and history. So she can’t be blamed on that score.
She has no business being as rude as she is to people though. Unfortunatly, not enough people stand up to her. When I worked there an elderly “Freind” who I won’t name, who worked tirelessly for the cemetery would always stand up in Jean’s presence. Somthing as comical as it was disturbing because The Daughter of Darkness seemed to regard this as her simple due!
March 12th, 2009 at 9:43
Richard
I think I know who the Friend was. I guided there in the 1980s. When I told Jean she was a cross between Margaret Thatcher & Queen Victoria she took it as a compliment
July 7th, 2009 at 14:33
This comment is a bit belated in 2009, but I would like to state that without Jean Pateman Highgate would be a ruin. Jean has been selfless and tireless in her efforts to pull Highgate from decay; when others turned their backs on it, she stepped forward. As a weekend groundswork volunteer I have seen the disrespect shown to graves by tourists and the neglect shown by locals. It is easy to forget that real people are buried at Highgate and they deserve respect - it is not a conventional tourist attraction. Jean Pateman reminds us of this; the respect she demands is for the land, the history and the ‘residents’ themselves. And of course half of the place looks wild - how can vast acres of overgrowth be tamed without volunteers to help with the work? It’s easy to visit the place and criticise its upkeep - why not spend a few hours helping to fix the problem?
July 23rd, 2009 at 17:31
As someone who lives in the states yet greatly admires
Highgate Cemetery (having been there twice) I agree that Ms. Pateman can be a bit harsh. However, as others have stated, the cemetery has suffered at the hands of tourists and thrill seekers and she demands respect for the place and its “residents.” I was at Highgate this past June and was told she retired, so you will most likely not see her.
The guide was a very sweet young woman. On a trip three years ago, I spoke at length with Ms. Pateman after the tour and found her to be very interesting; she lightened up considerably once she sensed my great enthusiam and knowledge of Highgate, esp. since I didn’t live in the UK.
Those of you lucky enough to live around London need to support all of the so called magnificent seven cemeteries, truly unique and historical sites. Nothing like them in the states!
September 1st, 2009 at 21:01
In any walk of life, and in any job, you can work hard and be passionate – but you don’t need to be a nightmare person.
Manners indeed cost nothing – but nor does being a nice person.
September 2nd, 2009 at 17:58
Jean Pateman is no longer Chairwoman of the friends of Highgate Cemetery but she is still to be found there with colleting tin in hand most days. I had a long chat with her last month and she was extremely pleasant. Granted she recognised me as I am a regular visitor. I think she has definitely mellowed over the last six months. I still reiterate, without her there would be no Highgate Cemetery.
September 13th, 2009 at 12:47
I have known Jean Pateman for twenty five years and concur with just about everything said here. However, Jean has been ill served by her fellow trustees over the years (admittedly, she’s appointed them) and they are equally responsible for what one finds at Highgate Cemetery - good, or bad.
See Audrey Niffenegger’s forthcoming novel ‘Her Fearful Symmetry’, published on 1st October, for an unforgettable portrait of Jean.
September 14th, 2009 at 12:53
Margaret, Dennis and Jeane…
I think you’ll find the there’d be no Highgate Cemetery without the tireless efforts of the hundreds of VOLUNTEERS who have given their time and energy so freely over the years. Jean Patement is certainly not the Lone Saviour of Highgate Cemetery, as you seem to think. She revels in the hard work and dedication of others and claims the glory as her own.
Margaret, regarding your statement, “Jean Pateman….. the respect she demands is for the land, the history and the ‘residents’ themselves”:
As a former guide myself, I have been told by JP personally that under no circumstances are we to talk about the history of the cemetery because people (apparently) don’t want to hear about notable Victorians, they’d rather hear about the flowers. What rot! If that is the case, Kew Gardens awaits.
Margaret and Dennis, your comments that the cemetery has suffered at the hands of tourists:
May I ask both of you how you think the gates of the cemetery are kept open each year WITHOUT guided tours and the subsequent donations from these ‘disrespectful’ tourists? In my experience, a fair number of people who’ve come on my and my fellow guides’ tours have offered their time as either guides or work parties but have been scared off by their treatment at the hands of Granny Mugabe, as we not-so-affectionately refer to her.
Regarding Jean Pateman retaining her stranglehold on the Cemetery as the (now ex) Chairwoman, she made her views known very clearly this weekend by stating that she is an “immovable object” regarding vacating her office and handing the reigns over to the new Chairman and Trustees. If this woman really gave a damn about Highgate Cemetery, she would’ve bowed out gracefully years ago.
Megalomanic? Indeed. Tyrannical? Absolutely. Philathropist? Certainly not.
September 14th, 2009 at 13:42
There would be no Highgate Cemetery without the tireless efforts of the hundreds of VOLUNTEERS who have given their time and energy so freely over the years. Jean Pateman is certainly not the Lone Saviour of Highgate Cemetery, as you seem to think. She revels in the hard work and dedication of others and claims the glory as her own.
Margaret, regarding your statement, “Jean Pateman….. the respect she demands is for the land, the history and the ‘residents’ themselves”:
As a former guide myself, I have been told by JP personally that under no circumstances are we to talk about the history of the cemetery because people (apparently) don’t want to hear about notable Victorians, they’d rather hear about the flowers. What rot! If that is the case, Kew Gardens awaits.
Margaret and Dennis, your comments that the cemetery has suffered at the hands of tourists:
May I ask how you both think the gates of the cemetery are kept open each year without guided tours and the subsequent donations from these ‘disrespectful’ tourists? In my experience, a fair number of people who’ve come on my and my fellow guides’ tours have offered their time as either guides or work parties but have been scared off by their treatment at the hands of Granny Mugabe, as we not-so-affectionately refer to her.
Regarding Jean Pateman retaining her stranglehold on the Cemetery as the (now ex) Chairwoman, she made her views known very clearly this weekend by stating that she is an “immovable object” regarding vacating her office and handing the reigns over to the new Chairman and Trustees. If this woman really gave a damn about Highgate Cemetery, she would’ve bowed out gracefully years ago.
September 14th, 2009 at 17:06
Purleaze, you are right I neglected to mention the tireless efforts of the volunteers, they do a wonderful job and I know many of them personally. My only regret is that I didn’t volunteer when I lived in North London, and no Jean didn’t put me off! Highgate cemetery without her would be like bread without butter!
Thanks for posting the book info Caroline; I will have to check it out.
September 15th, 2009 at 16:31
Hello Jeane,
While you claim to know the volunteers at Highgate Cemetery ‘personally’, most of them have never heard of you.
It appears that you knew only one guide at the cemetery and he is no longer there. If you really do know the Cemetery well, you’d know this (as well as the reasons why he is no longer there).
September 15th, 2009 at 19:53
Hello Purleaze, I thought my ears were burning!
Some of the volunteers from several years ago would probably only recall me by my maiden name. As for the current volunteers, unless there has been a vast change over the last three months there are at least three or four that definitely know me including one for whom I carried out some research. I know the guide you mentioned who is no longer there.
Did I have I had the pleasure of being on one of your tours?
September 15th, 2009 at 20:05
Purleaze is right. I am a guide at Highgate Cemetery and none of us know this Jeane Trend-Hill “personally”. In fact, I know of only one who has even heard of her.
I’d add that from the sort of claptrap Jeane Trend-Hill is uttering it’s just as well she didn’t “volunteer” her services when she lived in North London (even assuming her application would have been successful).
As for her comment that without Jean P, Highate Cemetery would be ‘like bread without the butter’, yes well she really is showing her ignorance.
September 15th, 2009 at 21:01
I honestly don’t care who does or doesn’t have selective memory, as that not what this is about.
Frankly I’m pleased I didn’t apply to be considered as a volunteer if I’d be working alongside people who assume anyone with an opinion different from theirs is ignorant and spouts claptrap!
September 16th, 2009 at 7:13
I worked a stint as a guide many moons ago and I HAVE heard of Jeane T-H. I remember her doing the piece for the BBC. Whilst I may not totally agree with her opinion of Jean P, JT-H was utterly charming and only has good things to say about Highgate. Please don’t change her opinion about us.
September 16th, 2009 at 7:46
Tut tut Jeane, would that be a psychic tantrum you’re throwing? Your comment that we suffer from ‘selective memory’ because none of us guides (but one) have heard of you let alone know you “personally” has caused much hilarity — ribs are cracking all over North London!
September 16th, 2009 at 8:12
So all the guides and staff just happened to be in the cemetery at the same time for you to check if they did or didn’t know me – amazing, or maybe you are psychic???
If you dislike Jean Pateman so much and hate the way things are run in Highgate why don’t you give up being volunteers and let someone who is respectful to an 88 year old woman and passionate about the cemetery take your place?
September 16th, 2009 at 9:18
Oh my my, your slip really is showing Jeane. You shouldn’t be disparaging about psychics seeing as you claim to be one yourself but anyway why not cut the cackle and simply give us the names of the Highgate guides you know “personally”. That would settle things.
I never said I disliked Jean P or that I have no respect for her – that’s you putting tendentious “psychic” words into my mouth. I simply questioned your statement that without Jean P, Highgate is ‘like bread without butter’, a statement for which you presented no evidence, a failure which indicated ignorance on your part. Here at Highgate Jeane, (as distinct from the imaginings of the psychic world), evidence matters. If you have the evidence, please present it.
September 16th, 2009 at 9:54
Morning Jeane,
There was no need to check on you. It’s a simple fact that none of the current guides know you personally. Sorry.
“If you dislike Jean Pateman so much and hate the way things are run in Highgate why don’t you give up being volunteers and let someone who is respectful to an 88 year old woman and passionate about the cemetery take your place?”
Oh, you mean like you, Jeane?
As someone who has never given her time there for anything other than self-promotion, I hardly think you’re qualified to comment. And I can assure you that I have no intention of abandoning my volunteer work at Highgate because of Jean Pateman.
September 16th, 2009 at 14:20
D, thank you for your kind words. I thought for a minute there I only had imaginary friends at Highgate!
Mary Ann, why would I give people’s name’s without their permission? They may not want to be involved and that would be rather ignorant on my part would it not?
Purleaze, you are mistaken; why on earth would I want to work with volunteers who have done nothing but verbally insult me since I posted my opinions on here? As for self promotion well you are all doing that for me now thanks! I’ll be sure to mention to the BBC when I’m shortly updating my cemetery piece for them, about the wonderfully professional guides at Highgate – and people think they should be afraid of Jean Pateman?!
In case you have forgotten this blog is about Highgate cemetery and Jean Pateman not me, I suggest we return to that.
September 16th, 2009 at 16:10
Hi Jeane,
Okay, let’s get back to the point - Jean Pateman.
Do you mind me asking if you’re a Friend of Highgate Cemetery? If so, I recommend you attend next year’s AGM. If it’s anything like the past 20 years’, it should be a very enlightening experience for you.
I appreciate you have your own opinion of Jean. I once believed that she was a dignified, altruistic soul who genuinely had the cemetery’s best interests at heart. However, over the years we’ve witnessed her outrageous treatment of staff, tourists and guides alike, her complacency regarding the eventual destruction of monuments by vegetation, her very questionable practices regarding electoral process at each AGM and the blatant scorn she’s poured upon suggested fundraising ideas offered up over the years. She has even openly said (in front of guides) that she hates cemeteries (honestly).
She’s not in this for the love of Highgate Cemetery, it’s because she’s found the taste of power suits her palate rather well. And she’s now fighting tooth and nail to retain that.
Please correct me if I’m wrong but I get the impression that your exposure to Mrs Pateman has been restricted to the gate upon entering and exiting the cemetery on your visits. It’s only until you’ve spent a large amount of time in her presence that her true colours emerge, particularly if she realises that she can’t manipulate you into being one of her toadies.
With regards to ‘exposing’ us guides in your BBC piece, please, say what you like. You can’t do any worse than the negative press already generated by Mrs Pateman - google “old woman Highgate Cemetery” and see what comes up.
If you’re as regular a visitor as you claim, you’ll already know that we’re passionate and enthusiastic about the place, and this is precisely what we volunteer our time there.
September 16th, 2009 at 17:45
Ladies and Gentleman, PLEASE.
I guess it’s a sign of how much Highgate Cemetery means to us all that feelings are running so high. May I try to explain why this is so?
In the early 70’s, when ordinary Highgate residents were given permission to go into the cemetery, which had been closed, to clean it up they were met with horrible deeds by horrible people. Derek Farrent and his witterings about a Highgate vampire were the least of it. When FoHC was formed it became a magnet for certain people for whom the phrase ‘dignity of death’ was a turn on. I remember the ex chairman telling me that a certain public figure (oh, all right then, Lord Mervyn Horder - does
anyone remember him now?) volunteered his services. These were accepted gratefully (he was a lord after all), until the day he was discovered leaving the cemetery with a dead body in the back of his car.
Highgate Cemetery has always been, primarily, a working cemetery, not a tourist attraction, and the decent people who serve it have been mindful of that fact - graveowners come first. It used to be that people likely to offend graveowners were kept out: For instance, the Bram Stoker Society, whose members liked to dress up as Dracula and leap out from behind tombstones, were banned in the early days. In recent years, due to, what appears to be,senility and apathy amongst the trustees, the vigilance has been relaxed and people who seem to regard Highgate Cemetery as a Disneyland of Death have been encouraged to visit and become volunteers. I know of the guide mentioned by some of you; he was permitted enormous liberties by the ex chairman and greatly distressed graveowners.
I believe some of the people posting comments here to be graveowners and I understand their distress. However, anyone has the right to visit this wonderful place, as long as they respect the dignity of death.
The Friends of Highgate Cemetery are going through a difficult time, due to mismanagement by the trustees, and everyone who loves the cemetery really should be uniting to overcome this.
I’m sorry if I appear pompous - I’ve really tried to speak from the heart.
September 17th, 2009 at 8:04
Purleaze, thank you for getting back on track, I was beginning to think that certain people here hated all Jean / Jeane’s!
Yes I will definitely try to attend future AGM’s if I can get there as I’m sure it would be very enlightening.
I have know Jean a long time and had the pleasure of many one to one long conversations (not just at the cemetery gates whilst filling out my gift aid form.) I can only speak as I find because I don’t work there, but that is not a reason for any verbal attack.
When I first met her back in the 80s I was scared of her, I have been on the receiving end of her sharp tongue more than once and have witnessed her ‘in action’. I do think she has mellowed a great deal over the last year though.
I have read much negative press whilst researching, but I always put forward a positive stance when writing articles myself as I love the cemetery, always have done and always will. I write for two American publications whose readers constantly ask me about visiting Highgate, I have accompanied several of them and many have encountered Jean. I do know that most of the guides are lovely but yesterday I was starting to have my doubts!
I totally agree with what Caroline has said in that our love of Highgate makes feelings run high and that this is a place that cradles our dead and we must always be respectful. I am in some cemetery or other most weeks because of my work and anyone who knows me will tell you that I abhor anyone climbing on graves, ghost busting coach trips, running around in fangs and cloaks. I know how I would feel if this happened where my parents are buried.
September 18th, 2009 at 11:31
Jeanne, none of the guides at Highgate Cemetery ‘hate’ you (or even think about you) for the simple reason that none of us know you. How many more times does this have to be repeated?
September 18th, 2009 at 13:02
Mary Ann,
If you checked the comments above you would see that one of them “D” actually does! It doesn’t need repeating - as I mentioned previously, this forum is not about me, please can we stick to the more important subject matter thank you.
September 18th, 2009 at 17:54
Now that you finally concede that you don’t know any guides other than ‘D’ from “many moons ago” and you also accept that your knowledge of Highgate Cemetery is very limited, yes please, please do let’s stick to the important matter. What, BTW, was that in your opinion — in precise terms please?
September 18th, 2009 at 19:34
Mary Ann, I am going to be the bigger person here and step away. This is turning into a ridiculous childish farce, please find somebody else to insult because I’ve had enough of your silly games.
September 22nd, 2009 at 7:12
Jeane: Goodbye.
Silent Cities: it was the Friends (many, many of them) who rescued the cemetery from “desolate wilderness”, not Jean P. It really is time this was acknowledged. You’re also wrong to refer to its “present glory”. The Cemetery is in fact in pretty poor shape and English Heritage has put it on the At Risk Register.
Richard Coldall: no, the Cemetery has not been “managed quite sensibly” as you say. Had it been it would not now be on the At Risk Register.
Margaret: your comment that “without Jean, it would be a ruin” shows that you haven’t been to the Cemetery for a very long time (and you appear not to know about the At Risk status). The fact is (as anyone who has been there continuously for 30 years will tell you) that the cemetery is now in WORSE condition than when the Friends took it over. This is due entirely to the daft policy of “managed neglect” which in practice meant plain neglect. As for your admonishment that people should stop criticising and do a bit of work on the landscape instead, you obviously haven’t tried this yourself. Otherwise you’d have known that anyone who tried was stopped before they even got to touch a single leaf of ivy. Finally, tell us this: how does it show respect for the dead to insist that their memorials are covered in ivy, holly, bramble so you can’t read the inscription and that tree roots are allowed to overturn these memorials? Come on Margaret, tell us – what sort of ‘respect’ is this?
Dennis: as you don’t live here you can be forgiven for your comments about tourists. But the fact is that we haven’t had any “thrill seekers” for a very long time (and even then it was just a couple of idiots) and the cemetery has not, as you believe “suffered at the hands of tourists”. On the contrary, it’s the tourists who have helped to keep the place going and on the map. We welcome them and we thank them for their generosity and for loving the Cemetery as we do.
Purleaze and Caroline C: yes, you’ve got it right but then you’re insiders so you know that the reality is very different from the propaganda and self-promotion.
Jeremy Hargreaves: thank you for recognising, without prompting, that it’s the “voluntary effort” of the Friends as a whole that keeps the Cemetery going. I hope you will help support our efforts in whatever you can especially now that there is a regime change and efforts at better management. And please do come and visit us again.
September 22nd, 2009 at 10:31
To Jeane Trend Hill: Ignore the haters because you don’t deserve this. You do amazing work with your photography and grave restoration projects. They are jealous of anyone who gets off their ass and makes a success of themselves.